Day 18 – More Pyramids

Just like AMTRAK, the train was over an hour late getting into Giza Station. We were met by Saggy and quickly put in our van. We were on a crazy ride to Dahshur to see the Red and Bent Pyramids. These pyramids have only recently been open to the public. It used to be on military property. Both pyramids were built by Snefru, father of Khufu who built the Great Pyramid. The Bent Pyramid was started at a very steep angle. At some point the builders realized that the pyramid was going to be too tall or the weight would cause the pyramid to be unstable. They reduced the angle of the pyramid and then finished it. It is assumed that Snefru was not happy with the shape and decided to build another one. This was the Red Pyramid. It was the first true pyramid. It gets its name from the color of the reddish color of the limestone casing. It was the only one of the two pyramids we could enter. Salma warned us that it has a strong ammonia smell inside (I wonder how it got that smell? Hmmmm.) We had to climb a staircase to get to the opening and descend a low passageway to get into the tomb. When it finally opened up, there was a corbelled ceiling that extended up for a great distance. It was beautiful. True to her word, a faint odor of ammonia could be smelled. (Kim: I wouldn’t exactly call it faint. I was practically overcome with the stench.) After we entered another room, a rickety staircase awaited us. It leads to the burial chamber. As we progressed further into the pyramid, the ammonia odor got stronger. Kim could no longer bear it and got out of the pyramid as quickly as she could. Although smaller that the Great Pyramid and it doesn’t have a Grand Gallery, but it was just as impressive.

We then went to Memphis. I’m hoping that we can get a tour of Graceland. Salma knew what it was, but said we couldn’t do it on this trip. This was the capital of Egypt during most of the Pharaohnic period. It was founded by the first Pharaoh, Narmer. At one time, it was a large palace compound. It fell into disuse and was covered with mud from the Nile floods and scavenged for building materials. All that is left now are some foundations and statues.

Our final touring stop was the Stepped Pyramid in Saqqara. It is the first all stone construction in the world. It was built for the Pharaoh Zoser. His architect was Imhotep. Because of the designs he created, he was worshiped by later Pharaohs as a god. They were working on some restorations and we could not go near the pyramid. As we walked through the funeral complex, we saw a tail sticking down from the top of a column. Several dogs had made their way to the tops and were trying to cool themselves in the breeze.

All around this area, there are earlier pyramids, but they were just a limestone casing over sand and rocks. The very first pyramid is located here.

Salma asked if we wanted to see how the carpets are made. In the basement, there were about a half dozen children about 10 or 11 years old. They each were working on a carpet. We were taken to one child who was tying knots so fast, you could not see what his hands were doing. They use the children because their hands are small. They can easily tie the small knots that are needed. Kim was allowed to try tying a knot. She did OK.

Once we hit the showroom floor, I suspected this was going to cost me. Kim always reminds me of the carpet we did not buy in Tibet. I decided that I did not want that to happen again. At first, Kim was not interested in any of the patterns. Then they pulled out one that we both liked. We got them to drop the price to half of what they were asking. Afterwards, Salma told me that when we bargain the price lower, it reduces the commission that the children get. I did feel bad after knowing that. I suspect that Salma gets a commission for bringing a paying customer, as well.

We had a special evening planned. We were going on a belly-dancing cruise. It is supposed to be the best in Cairo. The dinner was good, but not like the Sudan. The entertainment to start the evening was a little hokey. They had a electric piano and a bongo playing 1980’s easy listening music. I was just about to tell Kim that I don’t have any of this on my Ipod; when they played a version of Shocking Blue’s Venus. It was like being at a cheesy lounge. After the break, the real show started. The first number was the best of the night, the Tannoura dancer. He has what looks like a polka skirt which is vibrantly decorated. He starts to spin and the skirt starts to rise. He pushes it down and then up on the skirt to make it move around like a wave. He then takes some disks and stacks then around his head as he spins. After a while, he pulls the skirt above his head. Don’t worry, we don’t see his knickers. He has another skirt! It is an awesome display. We cannot figure out how he didn’t get dizzy and fall over.

After him came the gay cowboys and the belly dancer. The belly dancer did not wear traditional costumes. She was good, but we were told later that she was not an Egyptian. She was from Romania. They must know about silicone implants in Romania.