Day 6 - First Day on the Camel

At 3:30 we could hear people stating to accent to the top. At 5:00 the Spanish started singing hymns. We could see people at the top shining flashlights around our area. Kim overheard someone tell some others to be quiet, because there were people sleeping. We had hoped that they would not find the staircase to get down to our area. It didn’t take them long. Once it was found, they flooded the area. Some Russians were bold enough to climb up to our rooftop and plop themselves around us.

Slowly, you start to make out the mountains in the distance as the sun started to rise. The fog between the mountains made for a beautiful sight. As it got brighter, the view got even more spectacular. I’m glad we got a chance to experience it.

Today’s breakfast was the first that I (Jon) had in two days that my stomach felt OK. I think I’m adjusting to the heat. Kim saw the flies and decided to nibble on a few items.

Once the sun peaked above the mountains, the great exodus of tourists began. There must have been two or three hundred at the top. It was difficult to go fast. All kinds and ages of people were working their way down. At one point we came across a British couple who had stopped because the guy, who was wearing loose sandals, had rubbed a blister on his foot. Kim being the “Angel of Mercy”, that she is, gave him a few band-aids. We overheard her say, “I must really love you, because I’m touching your foot, and just look at your ugly toes!”

It took a little over two hours to walk down the trail. The shower we took at the camp was well needed, but we were sweating again within minutes after we were finished.

We were met by our air-conditioned Land Cruiser for the 70 Km drive to the next camel adventure. Well, it wasn’t really air-conditioned. All of the windows were open and very hot air blew through the vehicle. When we stopped at this isolated building alongside the road, we met our new camel driver and camels. We were going to an Oasis on the other side of the mountains. Kim had been asking me about our accommodations for the night. I told her we had a room at the Sheraton Oasis. I don’t think she believed me!

After an hour’s ride through the desert, we came to the mountains. We had to walk down the pass, because it would have been dangerous for us to be on the camels. If they lost their footing with a heavy load, they could go over the edge. At the bottom, we got back on the unhappy beasts for another hour trek through the desert. The oasis was a funny sight in the middle of the desert. It was the first oasis for Kim and me. When we got to the final destination there was a sign that read “All of the comforts of home”. I don’t think it reassured Kim. We were invited into another Bedouin family’s home. We put our bags in the “Bedouin Tent” area. It was like a big lounge with rug walls and a reed roof. It was cooler than being out in the sun

Once lunch was served, one of the five cats stationed himself under the table. When no one was watching, he would poke his head out and try to grab some tuna from the bowl on the table. I was proud of Kim for eating some after seeing the cat as well as the flies eating out of the bowl. I think she is getting used to roughing it! I still cannot understand how you can drink boiling hot tea on such a hot day.

The camel driver started to roll a cigarette. Rajab said he was using “Green Bedouin Tabacco”. If that was the case, there was a boat-load of Bedouins at the Grateful Dead concerts I was at last month!

Rajab wanted us to take a nap before we went to the White Canyon. Kim started to feel like I did a few days ago and said she might skip the canyon. When it was time to go, I pushed her a little to go. I wanted her to experience it as well. Once we got to the start of the canyon, she asked to sit and rest until we got back. Rajab and I commenced the journey. Immediately we had a difficult climb to get into a ravine and then had to climb down a steep face to get into the White Canyon. After that, it was fairly easy walking. The canyon got narrower as we walked further. In some spots it was just wide enough for a human to pass. It was very beautiful. At the end of the canyon, there was a make-shift ladder and some rope to get out to the rim. Kim would have stopped here. She hates to climb ladders, especially if it is not anchored well.

We retraced our steps and saw Kim in the distance. Rajab yelled to her and she didn’t respond. I was worried that she may have been dead. I was relieved to see she was just sleeping. I felt bad for her, not only is this type of travel not as fun for her, she was sick, and it was extremely hot; she was going through a monthly change (not like a werewolf or vampire, even though it seems like it sometimes). She was very uncomfortable. (While Jon and Rajab went trekking I was looking for a big rock to go to the bathroom behind. My stomach was churning and I now had full blown diarrhea. Thank goodness I brought a tissue along. A few minutes passed, oh no, not again! What was I going to do? I already used my tissue. Good thing I had on a multi-purpose panty liner. I know this is more information than some of you need, but it shows just how desperate I was.)

When we got back to the camp, it was time for dinner. They pulled some rugs/blankets out into the middle of an open area. The sun was going down, so it wasn’t unbearable to stay out in the open. Once the food arrived, the cats surrounded the blankets. Supper was an assortment of pasta, beans, and something that looked like hot dogs. I was starting to feel a little better, so I was able to finish a full serving. Something I haven’t been able to do in a few days. When everyone was finished, the leftovers were scrapped into a plastic bucket. The cats went wild trying to get to the bucket. Needless to say, there were quite a few cat fights.

Once the sun was gone, the only light was from the moon. This oasis doesn’t have electricity, so there was complete darkness. The tables and dishes were carried away from the blankets and pillows were brought out. This was our sleeping area. We were given some sheets to cover up, if we needed them. We were worried that it would be too hot to sleep. After the sun went down, a breeze started to blow. After an hour or so, it got quite cool (cool compared to the intense heat from earlier in the day). Before we fell asleep, we could just look straight up and see the stars. At that moment, I felt this was going to be the single best experience of the entire trip. Kim isn’t as convinced! We both had a good night sleep; the first in a few days.